It’s another Flashback Friday and we’re gonna raise the roof! That’s what you do after you put the walls up. 🙂
Before I bought the roofing materials for the shed I did a lot of research on different types of roofs. There are a lot of options but I went with a metal roof to keep with the farmhouse aesthetic I want for the homestead. I priced a few different stores and ended up going with the Pro-Rib from Menards, you can order it in lengths cut to the exact size you need and it’s very reasonably priced.
If you don’t know much about metals roofs, you have to order more than just the roof panels. There’s the drip edge, rake trim, ridge cap, and, since I went with a snap ridge cap, I also had to order reverse j-mold (the snap ridge cap snaps into the reverse j-mold). You’ll also need screws, the roofing manufacturer should have color coordinated screws with a washer.
Before we installed the roof we first had to put on foil-bubble-poly… what is that?? Let me tell you. If you remember back to when we framed the shed, we put roof purlins horizontally across the rafters instead of roof sheathing like you would put on if you shingled a roof. You could use roof sheathing with a metal roof but it increases the cost, in the case of the shed there was no reason to go with the sheathing.
Ok, back to the foil-bubble-poly. Metal roofs have a tendency to sweat in humid weather but with the foil-bubble-poly installed between the purlins and the roof panels, it will prevent the condensation from forming and “raining” in the shed. Why is it called foil-bubble-poly? Because it’s three layers: foil, bubble (think bubble wrap), and polyethylene. The foil side (shiny) faces out and the poly side (white) faces down.
Once we had the foil-bubble-poly installed it was time to start on the metal pieces. First we put the reverse j-mold along the top of the roof, we measured the ridge cap to see how far down from the ridge the reverse j-mold needed to be installed.
After the reverse j-mold was installed we put on the drip edge. This runs along the bottom edge of the roof and keeps water from getting underneath the roof panels.
Now that all of that is done it’s time to put some roof panels on! Now we’re gettin’ somewhere! The panels were 36″ wide so each side of the roof took four full panels and a partial panel (we cut to size onsite, the rake trim covered the slightly uneven cut edge on the end).
The shed is built on a pretty steep hill so the roof on the west side wasn’t too high off the ground, we could reach it with a ladder. The east side, however, was too high to work off a ladder so we built a scaffold. The scaffold was 8 feet high, now I know that’s not extremely high but I’m not a fan of heights. Not good times for me.
Before we started putting the panels on the east side of the roof we had to put the reverse j-mold along this side of the roof and snap on the snap ridge cap. The reverse j-mold was easy to get on, the snap ridge cap… not so much. But we got it on after we wrestled with it a bit. The reason I chose the snap ridge cap over a traditional ridge cap was due to the size. The snap ridge cap is a lot smaller and the proportions work better with the size of the shed. A traditional ridge cap would have overwhelmed the roof line of the shed.
Once the reverse j-mold, snap ridge cap, and drip edge were all done on the east side of the roof it was time to start installing roof panels.
And that’s a beautiful finished roof!
Next time we’ll put on the siding! We’re getting close to having a finished shed! 🙂